Tuesday, 14 March 2017

Fridge Not Cooling

Fridge Not Cooling:
Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate. If you cannot hear your refrigerator running or feel the compressor vibrating, your refrigerator is not working properly and you must investigate further. The chances are your refrigerator is not cooling or not cold.
First, try turning the cold control to the "off" position or unplugging the fridge; this will stop the compressor. Do you hear or feel a difference? If so, the compressor was running. WAIT SEVERAL MINUTES before turning the compressor back on for your diagnostic checks. The reason for waiting before you restart it is explained in section 3-4 (7).
If you perform the above test and do not feel a difference, try "listening with a screwdriver." Access the compressor by opening the back panel and place the metal end of a long screwdriver against the compressor and your ear against the plastic end of the screwdriver. You should hear the compressor running. If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads. If the compressor is running, it should draw about 6 amps.
If your refrigerator seems to be getting louder, you should spend some time troubleshooting refrigerator noises to learn about and alleviate the problem. Once you identify where the noise is coming from, you can proceed with any repairs.
Noise Coming From the Back
If the offending noise is coming from the back of the fridge, there are three possible components that could be making the noise: the condenser fan, the defrost timer, or the compressor.
The condenser fan is located in the back of the fridge and is sometimes covered by a panel. Noise is commonly made because of dust or lint stuck between the blades of the fan. The first step to fixing this is to unplug (always the first step when attempting to fix any electrical appliance) your refrigerator to get to the condenser fan. Use a soft brush to clean between the fan blades, but if there doesn't appear to be any debris buildup, you may have to replace the motor as the noise will be indicating that it is faulty.
The defrost timer is usually situated at the bottom of the refrigerator near the front. If you hear the noise coming from this area, it means that you will have to replace the timer completely.
4-1 CONTROLS
If your compressor is running and your refrigerator is warm in both compartments (or not as cold as usual, i.e. chilly but meats are thawing,) first check your CONTROLS. You never know if your kids got in there and messed around with them. Set them on mid-range settings. See section 7-1 on KID CAPERS for some interesting stories about this subject.
Inside either the freezer or refrigerator compartment you will generally find at least two dial type controls.
One of them, called the cold control, is an electric switch that starts and stops the compressor based on the temperature that it senses inside the compartment.
The other dial is an air door that controls the small amount of air that passes to the food compartment while the evaporator fan is running. (See Section 1-3)
In some refrigerators, the movement of these air doors is not manually controlled. They may be controlled thermo-mechanically, or even electrically, by a computer board such as the ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control.) But there is usually a knob for setting the temperature that you want in each compartment.
Either dial may be marked with any one of a dozen different labels: "refrigerator control," "freezer control," "food compartment control," etc. Determining which is which can get a bit confusing. If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is the cold control.
In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control. The cold control will usually have a wide tang and a narrow tang. (See Figure 8) The air door will usually have a plastic or metal "D"-shaped shaft (a round shaft with a flat) to which it attaches, although this is not always the case.
 Cold Control / Air Door Identification
If one dial is in the freezer section and one is in the food section, the one in the freezer section is the cold control, and the one in the food section is the air door.
If the knobs will not come off with a firm pull, or you are still unsure of which control is which, try putting your hand in front of the air vents in the food compartment and manipulating the controls. Make sure the evap fan is running; you may have to tape the door switch so it stays on. If you are manipulating the air door, there should be a detectable difference in the strength of the air draft from the low setting to the high setting.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings. This is exactly the WRONG thing to do. Turning the cold control to the coldest setting will keep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest setting closes the airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually gets warmer.


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